Buccee's EZ Feeder Issue

[MarkV]

Have had this feeder for about 6 years with no issues. Replaced the battery a week ago and now every time i test it, it blows the fuse. So apparently I have some kind of short in the motor. Anyone changed the motor in theirs and if so how big of a pain was it?

[Twist]

I'm running a couple of the 400 lb variety from Tractor Supply, they used to carry those when the 600 lb was exclusive to Buc'ees.

I've had to change the motor on my wife's feeder twice. First time was very early on and seemed to be a factory defect so ASF just sent me a new one. The 2nd time was a month or so before archery season opened last year, her blind is along a creek and it stays humid down there all the time so that could have been a contributing factor.

The biggest issue with changing the motor is if there's corn in the hopper. You have to flip the feeder over to realistically change the motor out so the hopper has to be emptied. It's not really a big deal from there, 4 bolts and pull the guard/motor assembly off. Take the old motor off of the plate, install the new one, run the wires and be carful not to pinch one. Bolt the guard/motor assembly back to the bottom of the hopper and flip back over. It takes 30 minutes or so for one person, having a 2nd person around to help maneuver things doesn't hurt though.

[MarkV]

I'm running a couple of the 400 lb variety from Tractor Supply, they used to carry those when the 600 lb was exclusive to Buc'ees.

I've had to change the motor on my wife's feeder twice. First time was very early on and seemed to be a factory defect so ASF just sent me a new one. The 2nd time was a month or so before archery season opened last year, her blind is along a creek and it stays humid down there all the time so that could have been a contributing factor.

The biggest issue with changing the motor is if there's corn in the hopper. You have to flip the feeder over to realistically change the motor out so the hopper has to be emptied. It's not really a big deal from there, 4 bolts and pull the guard/motor assembly off. Take the old motor off of the plate, install the new one, run the wires and be carful not to pinch one. Bolt the guard/motor assembly back to the bottom of the hopper and flip back over. It takes 30 minutes or so for one person, having a 2nd person around to help maneuver things doesn't hurt though.

Thats what i figured and was afraid of since I just filled it to the top.

[Smart]

When I bought mine, I put a plastic loom over the wires that go from the motor to the battery and controls immediately. They lay up against the sharp metal edge in the hole. I did that because there were some folks having problems with them shorting out because the wires had rubbed through the insulation.

[outlook8]

Not too bad to change the motor, even with corn in it. Helps to have two people so one can plug the hole when the plate is dropped, but can be done by yourself. I've done it a few times.

Chris

[toledo]

I got rid of mine. My theory is the motors have a lot of weight pushing down on them causing them to burn out way faster than normal. Combined with being hard to swap makes them not worth owning.

[Smart]

My theory is the motors have a lot of weight pushing down on them causing them to burn out way faster than normal. Combined with being hard to swap makes them not worth owning.

How do they have more weight on them than any other corn feeder with a spinner?

[SaltwaterSlick]

It’s easy to change the motor. Just take out the 4 bolts that hold the bottom plate in place. Shove a wad of paper or a rag in the hole to stop the corn flow. Unplug the motor before hand and push the wires down thru the hole where they come into the battery/timer compartment. Drop the plate being careful not to lose the barrel nuts they use for spacers. Replace the motor and reinstall the plate/motor assembly. Plug in the motor and test.
DON’T FORGET TO REMOVE THE PLUG YOU SHOVED IN THE FEED CHUTE‼️😉👍

[axisbuck]

Sometimes the corn slingin off the spinner hits the wires or wires rubbing against the sheet metal exposes the wires and shorts them.

[SaltwaterSlick]

Sometimes the corn slingin off the spinner hits the wires or wires rubbing against the sheet metal exposes the wires and shorts them.

Definitely check this. On the early models, there was just a hole in the sheet metal where the motor wires passed thru and this could happen. If there is just a hole, cut a piece of rubber fuel line about 1/2” o. d. by about 1 1/2” long. Split it so you can put it around the wires and stick that through the hole. That will protect the wires from impact as well as abrasion on the sheet metal.

[toledo]

How do they have more weight on them than any other corn feeder with a spinner?

Thinner metal allowing everything to flex downward. Remember everyone having to cut pvc spacers and shove them between the two plates so the spinner wouldn't jam.

[bullets13]

never owned one of these, but I'd be a little concerned about the number of y'all who are experts at changing the motors on these things, especially at their price point. Not insanely expensive, but comparative to what it would cost for me to throw one together (and probably have to change the motor every 3-4 years) they are.

[Smart]

Thinner metal allowing everything to flex downward. Remember everyone having to cut pvc spacers and shove them between the two plates so the spinner wouldn't jam.

I think that was a clearance problem back then....not a weight problem.

[Chase This!]

Try to spin the plate by hand. If it spins freely, likely the motor is OK and is a wiring issue.

[dbaio1]

Good info on this thread. I had a few issues early on and found out if was just bad connections. But after running feeders for almost 25 years you eventually will have to change a motor and just looking I was not sure how to do it compared to the old style drum feeders which are easy as heck. I feel better after reading this thread.